Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Day 79 - May 26 - Everest view hotel and Khumjung

May26 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging

Had left the windscreens wide open so that sun rays could wake me up before the alarm does. But the alarm won. And was disappoint to look outside. Pretty dull and cant even see the nearby mountain. The day would be flop and yes not Mt Everest today, by the looks of it no Tomm and never. As i will not go ahead. All the euphoria of making it till Namche gone kinda gone. It was depressing weather out there. I just lie on the bed thinking nothing. by 7.30 i had enough of it and thought of to trek till the Everest view hotel any way, as it would be bettor than sitting idle in the room. Push myself out of the bed and get ready. This time barrow an umbrella from the Hotel owner. So that at least i can take some pix on the way. It was to be a couple of hours of trek going up and up and up. go high above the town and at a army camp the soldiers pointed me to the track going way up to the top of the mountain.

Got to the start of it and it was nothing but switch backs and switch backs. Its raining and its cold. Just imagining the whole thing with bright sunlight. Get good top views of the Namche town surrounded by by snow capped mountains with the tips hidden in the fog. Its raining all the way. A group of 4 people pass me. They was also on the way to the Everest view hotel. For today lets just call it the hotel cos there is not going to be an Everest view. After the climb of the stoney switch backs get to to see the SoluKumbhu airfield. Which is rarely used. Prolly the highest airport in the world. It does not even have a black top. See a building high up. Its steep climb up with no steps. The rain gets harder and gets a bit windy. I see the group way above. As i reached the building, it was another hotel named panorama hotel and lot of walk left for the one i am going. Pass by the hotel and now have to walk on the ridge with a drop off on the side of the 3 feet path. Its windy that it almost blows of the umbrella. It such a pain to take photos, taking out the came from inside the rain gear, manage the swaying umbrella and take a pic etc. Miss many pix. After some walk its lil more climb to the hotel which i can see now. Looked pretty nice though. There was a welcome boards saying the height of 3880 meters. Man it was a 440 meter climb in just 2.5 hours!! The guys from the group ahead are already settled there. I went straight to the restaurant and look at the supposed space where Everest can be seen on clear days. And what do you know missed it by two days. As it was clear the day i flew into lukla. So close! Yes i trekked for three days and i may never get to see Mt Everest. All the people i meet are going up to the Base camp.

Talk to the group, where Dhreeraj is from Bangalore and there's a Brazilian couple and a guide. They get the hotel guys to start a fire at the fire place. It was a nice time with the much neede warmth and we spent time just chatting about our travel experiences. Motorcycle travel kinda gets people curious. But i am not hero around these base camp trekkers. Almost like 2 hours there and the time just flew. Dheeraj calls me over to join him to check out the town call Khumjung near by which had a yeti skull in the monastery! I join him. Kinda skeptical about the walking pace. But the curiosity of the yeti skull got the bettor of me. These guys comfortable walking along continuously and i try to keep pace with them all the way with out resting in between as i dint knew the way. By the time we reached the town my legs started hurting at the place which does on my previous treks without sufficient rest. I managed two and half days of trek well but this small continuous walk kinda broke me down. Get into the monastry and sure enough there is a strange looking skull from above the eye line. Even the keepers dont know the origin of it except that it was gifted from the near by town. Looked realy strange. Looked kinda real and was a cone head. Gave a small donation. And we head back as i take a few pix. once on to the track to Namche i let Dheeraj and the guide go ahead and i get back to my slow pace resting and all. But kinda bit late i guess. Leg hurting bad now. have to climb up the ridge again as Namche is on the other side. Now a bit lost my way and a local man told me to take a way. I kinda head towards the panaroma hotel to catch the trail and i have to literally walk through the bushes.

Finally on the trail back to Namche. Took a couple of pix of the air strip and start the climb down from the steep switch backs overlooking Namche. Sit at a point and just while my time viewing and soaking the panorama around. Spent quite some time there. Prolly an hour so just gazing at the view. Meet Jason on his way up. Though pretty dull for the camera the panorama was very nice. Its 3 pm by the time i am back in the town. Go to the bakery for something different. Then over hard conversation of guy could not summing Mt Everest cos of health issues. He had gone till 21000 feet. Joined in and had a look at his fantastic collection of pix. By now running out of cash and to get cash its like you swipe ur card and you get cash at some commission. Met Jason again there and his sister Ashley at the same hotel. And then it was some time in travel talk. Now that i haven't seen Everest was not knowing what i will do tomm. If the weather is good will try the view again or start back by noon till Manjo.

Morning at Namche...





The mountains hiding in clouds...


The vertical climb to Everest view hotel...





More hiding mountains...


Thought that was the hotel...


but not...


More walk ahead...


Finally the hotel...


Damn it was a 440 meter climb in 2 hours...


The view point with no view...


Some fire over talks...


The expensive room at the hotel...


Everest hiding in the center...


Can only see it here...


The khamjung town...


The awesome Kumbiula peak...


In the town...


The Yeti skull gyan...


This is supposed to be a real Yeti skull from the eyebrow up!!


In the monastery...


Lot of carving kept for people to read!...


Pretty views on the way back...


The panorama hotel...


The Solukhumbu Airport and the runway does not even have tarmac!!


This was really teasing. Can see Manjo and permit office from here and i thought it was very far behind after all the walk!!


The next five pix is a panorama. Couldnt stich it!






Namche from above...

Day 78 - May 25 - Phakding to Namche Bazar

May25 at EveryTrail

Map created by EveryTrail:GPS Geotagging

Got up by 5 am and it was already bright. Pretty slow in activities cos of the cold. Met an American guy on the way to the base camp with a guide. Thought of teaming up with the guy but did not propose as he had made the previous day's trek in 2 hours while i took 4 hours. Bettor keep to my speed and take it really slow.

This was my crazy bill at the hotel:
Dinner Rice and vegetables 300 Rs
Breakfast chow Min 200 Rs
Coffee 70 Rs
Internet 45 mins at 10rs per min 450 Rs

And hold
Room rent for the day 100 Rs only !! no its not a typo its just 100, a third of my dinner expense!!

Looked like its going to rain today. Man its been happening in this trip then when every i prepare myself for some thing tough, it only gets tougher. Its supposed to be a 800 meter climb today and its looks bad above and going to get colder as well. Started from 2575 meters height. See many groups going ahead. In just a few mins i man made to use the rain gear. And man was i ill prepared. I could not wear the textile riding jacket as i would sweat in it and could not let is get well as well. The non-water proof back was supposed to go inside the jacket as well! Ohh man it turned out to be bad. The jacket on my waist, with the rain pant covering it and the rain jacket covering the back pack. Man i looked so funny. Few mins and it not working my waist getting sqweezed and its only raining. The Rain set the only thing i have keep other things dry. It was looking bad. Went to a hotel and requested for a big plastic cover. Luckily she had one. Put all the stuff in the backpack in the cover and now i could wear the back pack outside and boy what a relief. On cover made all the difference and now i could concentrate on the trek ahead.

The rain never looked like letting up and it never will for the day. See many people coming and going. Literally all the people are faster than me. I take every opportunity to find a place to sit and rest. The path gets to climbing. see these trekkers well prepared with proper trekking gear and i am stuck with riding gear. But still carry on with enthusiasm hoping for good weather ahead. See many yaks comfortable carrying things on their backs. Make it to Manjo in 3.5 hours by 11. Yes by now i am hungry. Had one more expensive chowmin and they even chareged me 50 bux for the charging my fone!! Its tough climb to namche from here. Its climbs and climbs and climbs. One by one many trekker pass me. I was shocked to see a group with few old ladies of 60-70 years on this climb! Ohh man trust me they passed me too. Well i have to deal with my mild disability of physical exhersion and take it real slow. Its many a steep switch backs ahead. If i just put my head down and climb lazily some time i end up going into a narrow path only to realize the path has switched back! Cross the river couple of times on a narrow metal foot bridges. Though strong it bounces a lot with other peoples foot steps. At one point just walk beside the river. Then i got to see the imposing long long long climb ahead. Going up from this side of the river way above cross a metal bridge and again go up up up. I just laughed. Now found a stone and sat there for a while. Let a few groups pass by and each of them had the same laughing reaction looking at the huge climb. Was feeling ok and took the the climb. Taking plenty of rest. Making it a point that i will never walk up to gasping. Just sit down till i breath normal. And move ahead. I just keep asking passers by how much more hours ahead and i just double it for me. Was a pain to take out the cam of feel bad at missing out few shots. All the while getting confident and thought what if i could carry on ahead? and get tired and say Namche would be enough! yeah with walking you get to think lot more compared to when riding. Man this is so much harder than riding. I eat stomach full and i seem to burn it off in 3 hours and hungry again.

Well yeah its raining still alright. Made the climb crossed the very high bridge. Was an amazing view of to river conluance below the bridge. Then its just switch backs switch backs and more. Now no more people passing me guessed i may be the last guy in the path now but for the occasional local peole who were walking their enviable swiftness. But i see one of the group ahead. Well looks like i am in a ok speed. Lot more climbing and reach Namche Bazar by 3.30 with 4 hours from Manjo. But looking at the valley Manjo was pretty near. just that we were moving vertically. Reached namche. Made it to namche in 8hours for the day. Felt ok without any pain but only tired. Could not believe i trekked so much and even made the 800 meter climb reaching 3440 meters. It was a pretty big town in horse show shape and lots and lots of hotels. Almost every hotel will have rooms. But its the problem of choice now. Wanted a good hotel with great view now that i have managed to come to this great place. Spend some half hour looking which hotel would have bettor view of the mountains etc. But just got into one Yak hotel which looked at couple of snow caped mountains.

Just got into the bed and soaking the achievement of reaching till Namche. Just did not get out of the cozy blanket till like 7.30 pm. Finally when i cajoled myself to take look of the town, everything was closed for the day. This is a town of some serious trekking pit stop. No parties here. people sleep early cos they get up pretty early to start the trek. Do some net surfing and get back to the hotel for dinner. Sleep hoping for some clear weather tomm so that i can steal a view of Mt Everest.

My small room at Phakding...


Way to namche...





The trucks around here...


The path up


The yaks climbing up steep.. And couldn't believe these were 60-70 year old ladies from australia ! they were faster than me!





The steep climb...





The greecy chow min and its gets burnt off in three hours!


Sagarmata Matha national park permit office...


in the park...





Climbing down from permit office...


Where is the path??


A resting horse!!


Man this is where e'one saw the climb and laughed instead of getting worried
one mother of climb up...


like this...


I am out of shape alright!!


The confluence...


Nearing Namche...


I made it...


The town....








Hehe trying to protect my riding jacket from getting wet. Cant wear it as i will get cooked. Riding gear not good for trekking... Has been raining all day.